The independent country of Samoa—formerly known as Western Samoa and not to be confused American Samoa—is one of them. The tiny archipelago is far from anywhere in the South Pacific, and is a place of sugar-soft beaches, people dressed in sarongs (called lava lavas here), intriguing traditional dances, and little evidence that this is the 21st century. Still, it’s safe, welcoming, and ultimately not all that hard to get to (a 5.5-hour flight from Honolulu or 3.5 hours from Auckland).But the best part is that there’s no one else there—yet.While Samoa has long been a beach-flop destination for a few New Zealanders and Australians, it doesn’t register that high on the international radar. However, word is getting out and American brands are starting to setting up shop. There are two new Sheraton Resorts in the capital and near the international airport, and a few new smaller establishments. Even with the growth, it’s common to have one of those white beaches all to yourself. That’s especially true on Savai’i, the less populated of the two main islands, with just 42,000 people on about 650 square miles, and no big resorts.Here are some of the highlights on Savai’i.
The Alofaaga Blowholes
When my Facebook status mentioned Samoa, friends started asking if I’d seen the blow holes yet. It’s rare that people get so uniformly excited about a geological feature, but this one is seriously crazy. The Alofaaga Blowholes are a series of gaps in the volcanic rocks along the coast of Savai’i that allow waves to come in, before forcing them violently 100 feet into the air. Buy some coconuts from the local vendors, toss them in at the right moment, and watch them fly!
The dances
Forget any hula shows you may have seen in Hawaii or cultural performances in Tahiti. If you see dancing here, it’s because it’s really time to dance — with or without tourists in the audience. The most common dances are a lively male counterpart to the hula called thesasa, and the slightly violent fa’ataupati, or “slap dance,” in which men slap their bodies in ways said to have been derived from the motions of killing insects. And then there’s the taualuga, in which a group of men dance around a woman, then lie down in turns so she can step on their backs.
The surf is out of this world
Aside from the Kiwi beach-floppers, the main group of people who have typically visited Samoa have been serious surfers. They love the bragging rights associated with surfing gnarly waves—and the area is full of them. But it’s not just for super advanced surfers — even brand-new beginners can enjoy.
There’s a terrific new lodge
Mainly marketed as a surf destination, the new Aganoa Lodge Samoa is much more than that. Sure, the spectacular point break is just a short swim from the main house, but it’s hardly the only reason to visit. Reopened after a major investment from a group of Americans in February, the lodge consists of eight dreamy open-air fales, whose beds are mere steps from the beach. Beyond surfing, Aganoa offers SUP, snorkeling, island sightseeing, and simply relaxing on the empty white beach.
Afu Afu Falls
Samoa is hot—the average temperature is 86F, and the water is 77F. The cold-water showers at many of the fale accommodations (including Aganoa) come as a relief. Looking for an even better way to cool off? Take a five-minute hike followed by a leap of a rock edge into the cool freshwater pool beneath the Afu Afu Falls. It’s a short swim across to the base of the falls, where you can pose for a terrific photo.
Fabulous churches
Regardless of your religious beliefs, it’s worth going to church on a Sunday to see Samoan culture at its most distinctive and vibrant. The 19th-century missionaries were effective, and the overlay of Christianity on the traditional culture is fascinating. You see it whenever you drive by a brightly colored church, whose over-the-top architectural style you can’t quite name. There’s a nightly evening prayer curfew around 6 p.m.—which can be annoying, as visitors aren’t supposed to drive during that time. But nothing but church happens on Sundays anyway, so you might as well go. Everyone in the villages turns out in their best clothes for an hour of exuberant singing and celebration.
There’s no Starbucks
Or any other sign of Western culture. There’s little need for caffeine anyway, as life moves awfully slow here. A market sells skip-able souvenirs (lava lavas, wood carvings, shell jewelry), there’s a decent local beer (which tastes pretty much like any other tropical-island beer) and an ice cream shop with interesting tropical fruit flavors. But really, you don’t even need them. The best thing to eat is fish, especially the just-caught sashimi that’s served nightly as an appetizer at Aganoa.
The Alofaaga Blowholes
When my Facebook status mentioned Samoa, friends started asking if I’d seen the blow holes yet. It’s rare that people get so uniformly excited about a geological feature, but this one is seriously crazy. The Alofaaga Blowholes are a series of gaps in the volcanic rocks along the coast of Savai’i that allow waves to come in, before forcing them violently 100 feet into the air. Buy some coconuts from the local vendors, toss them in at the right moment, and watch them fly!
The dances
Forget any hula shows you may have seen in Hawaii or cultural performances in Tahiti. If you see dancing here, it’s because it’s really time to dance — with or without tourists in the audience. The most common dances are a lively male counterpart to the hula called thesasa, and the slightly violent fa’ataupati, or “slap dance,” in which men slap their bodies in ways said to have been derived from the motions of killing insects. And then there’s the taualuga, in which a group of men dance around a woman, then lie down in turns so she can step on their backs.
The surf is out of this world
Aside from the Kiwi beach-floppers, the main group of people who have typically visited Samoa have been serious surfers. They love the bragging rights associated with surfing gnarly waves—and the area is full of them. But it’s not just for super advanced surfers — even brand-new beginners can enjoy.
There’s a terrific new lodge
Mainly marketed as a surf destination, the new Aganoa Lodge Samoa is much more than that. Sure, the spectacular point break is just a short swim from the main house, but it’s hardly the only reason to visit. Reopened after a major investment from a group of Americans in February, the lodge consists of eight dreamy open-air fales, whose beds are mere steps from the beach. Beyond surfing, Aganoa offers SUP, snorkeling, island sightseeing, and simply relaxing on the empty white beach.
Afu Afu Falls
Samoa is hot—the average temperature is 86F, and the water is 77F. The cold-water showers at many of the fale accommodations (including Aganoa) come as a relief. Looking for an even better way to cool off? Take a five-minute hike followed by a leap of a rock edge into the cool freshwater pool beneath the Afu Afu Falls. It’s a short swim across to the base of the falls, where you can pose for a terrific photo.
Fabulous churches
Regardless of your religious beliefs, it’s worth going to church on a Sunday to see Samoan culture at its most distinctive and vibrant. The 19th-century missionaries were effective, and the overlay of Christianity on the traditional culture is fascinating. You see it whenever you drive by a brightly colored church, whose over-the-top architectural style you can’t quite name. There’s a nightly evening prayer curfew around 6 p.m.—which can be annoying, as visitors aren’t supposed to drive during that time. But nothing but church happens on Sundays anyway, so you might as well go. Everyone in the villages turns out in their best clothes for an hour of exuberant singing and celebration.
There’s no Starbucks
Or any other sign of Western culture. There’s little need for caffeine anyway, as life moves awfully slow here. A market sells skip-able souvenirs (lava lavas, wood carvings, shell jewelry), there’s a decent local beer (which tastes pretty much like any other tropical-island beer) and an ice cream shop with interesting tropical fruit flavors. But really, you don’t even need them. The best thing to eat is fish, especially the just-caught sashimi that’s served nightly as an appetizer at Aganoa.