The most scenic places to visit in Switzerland

Why Switzerland? Well, it’s a country that knows its strengths, and isn’t afraid to play to them. A land of dramatic mountains, tranquil lakes and medieval cities, it makes for some incredible scenery, and visitors can’t help but be wowed by the views.

Combine these with welcoming traditional villages and everything from hearty comfort food to delicate plates of fresh local ingredients and it’s no surprise travellers return again and again, relishing the sensation of feeling rested and rejuvenated that Switzerland’s fresh mountain air can bring.
And the best way to explore this rich landscape is to take the train. It’s a cliché because it’s true – Swiss trains really do run like clockwork. The network comprehensively covers the country – even reaching such heights as 3,446m at Jungfraujoch, Europe’s highest train station. But this mesh of efficiency doesn’t just include trains, funiculars and cable cars are part of the system too, so visitors and locals alike can easily reach the many heights of Switzerland.
Exploring Switzerland’s resorts couldn’t be easier, or more rewarding, with TUI’s seven handpicked destinations across the country.
1 Grindelwald
Talking of strengths, Grindelwald is a serious heavyweight. Considered to be one of the most beautiful places in Europe, its charm is found in its mix of dramatic scenery (the legendary north face of the Eiger soars above the village) and cosmopolitan community.
On a holiday here, embrace the full spectrum of local treats, from the subtle but delicious Fendant du Valais white wine to the 300km of walking trails (some easy, some more taxing) exploring the surrounding Bernese Oberland. Grindelwald has been attracting holidaymakers since the end of the 18th century, and once you’ve set foot here you will understand why.
2 Interlaken
Eagle-eyed linguists may have spotted the clue to Interlaken’s location in its name – it sits inter, or between, the lakes of Thun and Brienz in the Bernese Oberland and is all the more fortunate for doing so. 
It’s a town of strong stats – presided over by three mighty mountains, Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau (the Ogre, Monk and Young Maiden), it has more than 45 mountain railways, cable cars and chairlifts leading to a dense network of hiking trails up in the hills, as well as being the start of the Jungfrau Railway to Jungfraujoch, known as the “top of Europe”.
Or take to the lakes on a fleet of passenger ships, including an historic paddle-steamer on each lake, and enjoy the waterfalls on Lake Brienz and the fairytale castles around Lake Thun.
3 Wengen
If you prefer your strengths to be at the featherweight end of the scale, Wengen is the place to head to for peace and quiet. Car-free, the village sits on a sunny, sheltered plateau at the foot of the Jungfrau.
Accessed by the Wengernalp railway that starts down in the valley at Lauterbrunnen, Wengen retains an old-world nostalgia, enhanced by its belle époque hotels and chalets. And no visit would be complete without walking the classic panoramic route between Wengen and Kleine Scheidegg, for the full-on full frontal view of the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau.
4 Lucerne
Cashing in on many of Switzerland’s assets, the city of Lucerne, with its gabled and frescoed waterfront houses and wooden, covered, medieval bridge, offers visitors a satisfying mix of city bustle and natural beauty. Lake Lucerne is at its door, and the mountains of Rigi, Pilatus and Stanserhorn are in its garden and easily accessed.
The car-free old town is full of picturesque squares and churches, but Lucerne also welcomes modernity, earning itself a reputation for innovative design with its futuristic lakeside Culture and Convention Centre, designed by French architect Jean Novel, who also designed the Louvre Abu Dhabi.
5 Montreux
Montreux may be known the world over for its jazz festival, and justifiably so given that concerts take place on stages and parks all over the resort. But it isn’t all about moody sax solos and swinging piano riffs. It’s a little-known fact that vineyards surround the lakeside town and it enjoys an exceptionally mild climate, meaning Mediterranean plants such as pines, cypresses and palm trees happily grow here too.
Days can be spent idly ambling along the flower-bordered lake promenade, soaking up the views of Chillon Castle and snow-covered peaks in the distance. So visit for the jazz, but stay for the wine, warmth and waterside wellbeing.
6 Zermatt
Could the Matterhorn be the world’s most famous mountain? Judging by its unmistakably distinctive sharp angles, yes. Sitting at the foot of it is Zermatt, a car-free mountain town every bit as unique as the jagged peak above it. Packed with pretty 16th-century wooden chalets and rustic winding streets, and surrounded by flower-filled meadows, it’s an utter delight and a true mountain haven.
Cable cars and mountain railways provide efficient access to the towering heights of the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise, and over 150 restaurants, both on and off the mountain, supply ample refreshments.
7 Gstaad
Breathtaking mountain views and traditional Swiss charm are just two of the reasons why visitors return time and time again to the beautiful resort of Gstaad. Active types are well catered for here, with over 300km of walking paths to explore, as well as mountain biking trails and backpacking routes, best enjoyed with several stop offs at picturesque points for a picnic or some fondue kits, which you can pick up from a local dairy.
As well as quirky attractions like animal trekking, and adrenaline-pumping high ropes courses and paragliding, Gstaad also plays host to some of the coolest festivals in the area - including the famed Gstaad Züglete – which takes over the whole village, and is often described as the biggest cocktail party in the Alps. No wonder it counts George Clooney and Madonna as regulars.

This is Europe's hottest new food destination

Paris. Bologna. San Sebastian. Rome. What do these places all have in common?

They're a few of the European cities to which food and drink lovers flock. While each offers plenty in the way of other attractions (well, except for maybe Bologna where the cuisine is the main event), the food is a significant factor in their buzzworthyness.
Many people plan their trips around the food of the city or country they're visiting, making dinner reservations 30 days in advance, booking flights to far-flung destinations all for a three-starred Michelin restaurant's tasting menu.
I wasn't thinking of Michelin stars when planning a recent trip to Helsinki, Finland. The design? Sure. Beauty? Check. Agreeable weather in July? Yes, please. But the food? Not on my radar.
Until now.
Vibrant, ingenious, inventive, fresh and fun, the food of Helsinki deserves top billing. Travelers looking for another European food destination to write home about need look no further. It is right there in Finland's relaxed capital.
The value of roots
Dishes at Juuri, a small-plates restaurant in the city's design district just off the main square, are composed of myriad ingredients belied by spare menu descriptions such as beef with beetroot and chicken with celery.
"Is this considered eclectic Finnish food?" the server was asked, to which she responded succinctly: "This is Finnish food. This is typical." Nothing unusual to see here, unless you consider plated works of art something to see -- and taste.
Full disclosure: The dishes did not feel world's apart from a recent meal at Eleven Madison Park, a highly acclaimed Michelin-starred restaurant. One of the world's best restaurants, EMP deserves its every accolade, and yet it doesn't feel blasphemous to say that Juuri can hold a candle to it -- at least, insofar as taste is concerned.
Heidi Kavander-Sundström, Juuri's office sales manager, pointed us to the website, explaining that it would reveal how Juuri was born, where its roots are and what the establishment's values are.
Click on the website's "Roots" tab and you'll see it plain as day: "Our roots in this country," reads the headline, below it a hard-to-argue-with sentiment: "Times change but one thing remains unchanged: Tasty food is always topical, preferably several times a day and without rushing."
Juuri calls its bite-sized tastes "sapas" and encourages sharing. The menu offers little in the way of description. Tomato with bread gives you only a sense of the most basic ingredients but does not indicate how richly flavored the seemingly simply toast will be. Potato with garlic doesn't sound exciting, but your palette would have to disagree.
If Juuri, "Finnish cuisine with attitude" leaves an indelible mark with its modern take on the country's cuisine, then Kalakauppa E. Eriksson, a fish shop in the Old Market Hall of Helsinki, gets points for pure, unadulterated taste.
Market meals
Helsinki has two main markets: Vanha Kauppahalli and Hakaniemen Kauppahalli. Each is worth a visit (or three).
The wide variety of pastries at Hakaniemen are worth seeking out. A favorite, viineri (from Danish pastry), is a cream puff croissant-like concoction. Filled with lightly sweetened, whipped cream and a smattering of jam, it's like eating a cloud but 10 times tastier.
Vanha Kauppahalli, Helsinki's Old Market Hall, has been around since 1888 and though the sheen and polish inside suggest that it's undergone a facelift in recent years, it still gives off an old-school air.
Fishmongers present the catch of the day. Butchers hawk reindeer (more on this meat later), jerky and the thickest cuts of aged Porterhouse you've ever seen.
A boutique liquor store selling wine, beer and local gin among other spirits advances the market's one-stop shopping cause, and Mari's Smoothie, featuring gluten-free baked goods and fresh juice, entices health-conscious shoppers.
The market isn't all Finnish though, as evidenced by the gluten-free vendor above. Local Finns craving an American-style cupcake or cookie can turn to Blondie Bakes, a bakeshop boasting made-from-scratch items.
And market visitors with a hankering for Asian flavors should beeline for Hanoi Vietnam. Along with the Vietnamese mainstay, the bánh mì sandwich made with pork and terrine and crunchy vinegar-soaked vegetables, this stall offers a Finnish take on the classic sandwich by substituting crayfish for the savory meat when the seafood is in season, which it was in July during my visit.
Kalakauppa E. Eriksson is a popular fishmonger residing in a large corner of the market hall. One side has seating for folks who'd like to enjoy the premade offerings (including salmon soup, a must-have regional dish) at a more leisurely place, perhaps with a glass of sparkling wine.
Opposite the few tables and stools is the to-go seller, which sells fish by the pound, about half a dozen open-face smoked sandwich sandwiches on nutty, brown pita-like break, shrimp salad, fried herring and last but not least, crayfish salad.
By the pound or as a sandwich that fits in the palm of your hand, this is the market champion.
Made simply with good-quality, slightly sweet mayonnaise and topped with a dill sprig and thinly sliced lemon wheel, the crayfish sandwich may be the single best food item in all of Helsinki.
Kauppias Juha Lindberg, who oversees the E. Eriksson Market Hall (they sell fish wholesale too), offered up a most modest reply via email when asked to describe the company's food and ethos: "Our seafood in a tiny bistro is very popular because it is so fresh. I have created my career for 17 years with passion for seafood."
Crayfish season begins on July 21 and goes through the end of October.
Old and respected
With menus in Finnish, Swedish, English, Russian and Japanese, Sea Horse may just be Helsinki's most touristed dining destination, but it is no tourist trap. Founded in 1934, the restaurant serves traditional Finnish cuisine in a simple space marked by white table-cloth lined tables.
Known for both its meat and seafood dishes, Sea Horse appears to be the kind of restaurant that has no desire to fix what isn't broken. There are a handful of vegetarian options, but that's not why you dine at the institution that is Sea Horse.
Multiple preparations of steak are available -- pepper, beef topped with fried onions and sour cream, and filet mignon for two -- but you don't go to Sea Horse for the steak or even the Sweetbreads a la Sea Horse. You go for the reindeer.
Fillet of reindeer appears close to the bottom of the menu, but as it's such an unusual menu item, it's unlikely you'll miss it.
The Sea Horse version is served medium with a cranberry-red wine sauce. On the side in its own separate dish is mashed potatoes with onion and butter, and, more butter from the taste of things. The richness of the starchy side is a nice accompaniment to the lean reindeer meat, similar to elk or venison.
But in spite of its low fat content, the reindeer, prepared medium as per the chef, is juicy and flavorful. It's also the type of meat that soaks up sauce nicely.
Sea Horse's portions are generous, but they are happy to do dessert to go. The Finnish squeaky cheese with cloudberry jam and the cheesecake are both recommended.
Belly up brunch
"Breakfast is included and is from 7 to 11 a.m. in the restaurant off the main lobby," the receptionist informs upon check in at Hotel Lilla Roberts, a former police station building turned art deco boutique hotel in the city's design district.
Krog Roba is the hotel restaurant serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. It takes hotel dining -- not to mention pejorative breakfast-included connotations -- to another level.
Velvet green banquettes and chairs provide ample seating in the large space anchored by a long bar on one side of the room. During breakfast and brunch, the bar space is covered with pastries, porridge, fresh fruit and homemade honey mead.
A round table just off the bar presents thick slices of smoked honey ham, a creamy hunk of blue cheese, sliced tomatoes and a bread station featuring multiples types of fresh-baked bread and rolls. There is also the star of the show: juniper salted salmon.
Karri Knaapila, executive chef at Krog Roba, credits Finland's "pure and clean air, fresh water and nature," with guiding the vision of his menu composed of "high-quality ingredients."
He explains that the "short but very intensive and light full summer season" contributes to the flavor profile of a number of items, including vegetables, berries and wild mushrooms.
"Nordic madness is shown for example in ingredients, plating and seasoning food: juniper salted salmon, frozen dried wild berries and honey mead are a few things where you can feel this touch when you are eating our breakfast."
Knaapila is excited about Helsinki's rising food scene.
"Past years have brought many new chef-owned restaurants in Helsinki. Good restaurants bring even more good restaurants."

Alicudi: Italy's LSD island

Remote, car-free, steep and serene, Sicily's Alicudi isle is perfect for a no-frills, unplugged retreat, but its mind-bending past gives a different meaning to the phrase "day-trippers."

There are no roads, no boutiques, no cigarette vendors nor ATMs. Only thousands of stone steps lit by the stars, a dozen tireless donkeys to carry bags and a few residents who keep to themselves.They hide a secret.
"See that pink villa over there, overlooking the pebble beach?" says local Giulia Russo, owner of Golden Noir café, as she nods towards a building with white columns and a sea-view terrace surrounded by huge ancient millstones.
"That used to be the old village gristmill where hallucinogenic bread was made every morning by local housewives. Clouds of psychedelic drug grain dust survived for decades in there."
The mill, now turned into a cozy resort called Casa Mulino, lures tourists to the most isolated and mystical of the volcanic Aeolian islands, off Sicily's northern coast.
The 'crazy rye'
Nowadays, visitors are addicted to Alicudi's primitive vibe, crystal-clear water, bright dwellings and the picturesque harbor lined with tiny fishermen boats.
But for centuries, ever since the first settlers landed in the 1600s, oblivious island dwellers got their kicks from their daily bread.
Until as recently as the 1950s, locals ate bread contaminated by a mind-blowing rye fungus called "ergot," fostered by sultry weather.
Ergot is the base element of LSD.
Before Swiss scientist Albert Hofmann chemically synthesized the drug in 1938, Alicudi was a "natural" lab where the narcotic fungus wreaked havoc on the population.
Generations of villagers were fed on so-called "crazy rye" or "horned rye," named after the pointed black ends similar to devil horns the fungus produces on rye ears.
Village women would prepare the hallucinogenic bread each morning, serving kids and husbands their daily dose of LSD. All islanders got high without even knowing it.
Long-term ergot poisoning can cause ergotism, which induces gangrene and convulsive symptoms including mania and psychosis.
"It was a diet mistake, a bad eating habit triggered by poverty, isolation and ignorance of hygiene," says local historian Pino La Greca.
"The first harvests were scarce and food was precious so nothing was thrown away, even rotten bread and pasta covered in mold were eaten.
"Scarcity of other alternative food sources and humidity produced this nasty fungus that when ingested caused mass hallucinations, hysteria, hypnosis and autosuggestion."
Flying women, donkey-men and ghosts
Feeding on crazy bread made people fall into trances, losing consciousness. Visions and mental trips were daily adventures.
Legends flourished of flying women, dubbed "maiara," meaning "sorceress" in Aeolian dialect.
At night, these witches would stare at the mirror, cover their bodies with a special ointment and fly together across the sea on shopping sprees to Sicily's Palermo and to mainland Calabria.
Almost starving to death at home, they'd come back with bags stuffed with food and treats they could only dream of.
Cruel sorceresses would straddle the bows of fishing boats to make them sink and cast "evil-eye" spells on enemies. But they also had the power to heal babies of stomach worms, say the stories.
Tales of talking hemp sacks, ghosts defecating behind shrubs, and of men turned into donkeys, cows and pigs are also popular.
"These people were on a LSD-induced trip 24/7, they spoke to each other and shared their visions, making real what was only in their minds," says La Greca.
Pact with the devil
Some locals don't believe in the "crazy rye" addiction. For them it was pure magic, a miracle.
"These are not fairytales," swears Peppino Taranto, owner of the island's only hotel, Ericusa.
"The last flying 'maiara' died in 1948. These women did fly, just didn't need broomsticks. They would gather with other gliding ladies of the Aeolian archipelago and drift over the sea, having fun and partying on beaches. Even men flew. It was a sect of flying humans."
Taranto even appealed to the Church and found proof it was all true.
"A bishop told me these people had made a pact with the devil in order to possess magical powers and fly, just like Simon the Sorcerer had done to confront St. Peter in the New Testament. He was Christianity's first heretic whom Dante placed in the Divine Comedy's Inferno."
The flying villagers worshipped this Biblical magician, who one day crashed on Rome while soaring through the clouds. A few of Alicudi's wannabe-witches fell off their balcony trying to leap for the sky.
As a kid, Taranto loved listening to the village elders at sunset, when they shared their visions atop brick walls covered in capers and prickly pears.
"Many saw these flying women, and several husbands were also angry that their wives led a double life," he says.
Too bad most of the elders on Alicudi are dead, and those still alive -- but now living on mainland Sicily -- don't want to talk about the isle's hallucinogenic past.
Tornado-cutters
An exception to such "omertà," the Sicilian code of silence, is fisherman and cook Silvio Taranto.
During the day he takes visitors on boat tours, while in the evenings he opens his house for exclusive seafood dinners and a few tales.
Once a year, he casts a spell. Silvio, 68, is a so-called "tornado-cutter."
"There's this ritual I do each Christmas Eve since I was 20. I say a special prayer that gives me the power to kill whirlwinds for 12 months straight," he says. "But it's a secret formula, I cannot unveil it otherwise it brings bad luck. In order to work, it can only be said on December 24, and then passed on to male sons."
Clenching a knife between his teeth, Silvio then performs a series of gestures. He cuts the air with his hands, making zig-zags and cross signs. Or he uses the knife.
"Whenever I see a tornado approaching in the distance, I close my eyes and in three minutes it vanishes," he says.
Whirlwinds were believed to be formed by a vortex of naughty flying women who wanted to punish their despotic husbands.
Silvio has had quite a few visions himself, even though the "crazy rye" is long gone.
"I was working on my plot of land one morning and all of a sudden, out of nowhere, I see the ghosts of a flying dog, bull and pig run over me," he says.
Other tornado-cutters use different methods. They pull down their pants and vent out their fear to the storm. This power apparently lies in the buttocks of the first-born males only.
Opening the doors of perception
The witchy heritage is a visible trait of Alicudi.
The first thing that catches the eye when the ferry lands are the harbor walls painted with images of flying ladies dressed in long black robes, hair blowing in the wind, eyes shut and a smile on their faces. There is an eerie ambiance, and the shore is dotted with disquieting caves and mushroom-shaped grotto houses.
"Women here have always worked mad in the fields, tending crops under scorching suns and in poor living conditions. This remote isle was like a cage to them," says Aeolian artist Loredana Salzano, who paints flying "maiare" sorceresses on hand-made ceramics and canvasses at her Alice Attònita studio in Lipari, the main Aeolian island.
"They were desperate, bored, hopeless. This forced them to open their doors of perception, to create an alternative mental world to fly to and hide."
In the past Alicudi's isolation was extreme, and even today there is no direct ferry.
Up until the 1970s only small boats could reach the shore. The desire to escape and the utter silence that sharpens meditation skills, topped with the magic fungus, induced locals to "live" in other dimensions.
"Anyone can exit the body and travel by astral means through the air. It's part of our interior development," says Vincenzo Anastasi, manager of Hotel La Canna on nearby Filicudi isle and a deep connoisseur of "parallel universes."
"We are on this world to grow in love through body experiences, yet our body is only an instrument."
Spooky money-maker
The ancient Greeks first colonized Alicudi calling it Ericusa, the "purple island," because of its abundance of indigo-colored heath that covers the extinct volcano crater.
The color purple, in Italian superstition, is a bringer of ill omen.
But despite its freaky atmosphere and past, Alicudi is a slice of paradise.
Travelers call it "Neverland," a place frozen in time where a new life is possible. The lack of modern comforts is a luxury; prepare to stretch muscles on the 4,444 rough steps connecting the harbor to the houses.
The workout is rewarded by a breathtaking panorama from the village summit.
But the flying women have created a miracle of sorts -- they've brought money.
Tourists come, some stay, T-shirts are made with the "maiara" logo. Clever residents exploit the legends to draw clients, like Rosita Barbuto, owner of a B&B.
"You bring me tourists, I tell you what I have seen and know of the sorceresses. No clients, no stories. These are delicate issues," she says.

Inside one of the Maldives' most luxurious resorts

When it comes to Maldives travel, you have to try pretty hard to have a bad vacation.
Made up of more than 1,000 islands that sit in 26 reef-framed atolls, this tiny nation's waters of seemingly infinite shades of blue and green slide into patches of white sands and dark corals.
There are now over 100 resorts occupying these tiny parcels of paradise, offering various degrees of luxury.

But few can match the experience you'll walk away from Soneva Jani with.
One of the newest and most expensive resorts in the country, it's made up of just 24 over-water villas -- plus one four-bedroom beach villa -- on the uninhabited island of Medhufaru, which sits within a large, private lagoon in the Noonu Atoll.
In spite of the island's size, much of the resort was built over the water. This includes the "The Gathering," -- a huge, open-air, three-story structure that houses the resort's restaurant, fitness center, spa and kids' club.
The smallest available villas range from $3,000-$5,000 per night, depending on the season, while the largest go for about $20,000 per night.
Not all over-water villas are created equal
In a destination with so many over-water villa options, what justifies the price? The difference is in the decadent details, which guests get a taste of even before they board the seaplane for the 40-minute ride from the capital, Male.
After checking in for your Trans Maldivian Airways flight, you're shuttled over to Soneva Jani's private lounge and offered snacks, beverages and massages.
Then you're asked to make some very important decisions via an iPad-based questionnaire -- and by important we're talking about what kind of pillows you want on your bed (there are about a dozen options).
Next question addresses what fragrance you want sprayed onto that pillow -- bergamot, lemongrass, orange or peppermint?
It doesn't end there.
Favorite alcoholic beverage? Favorite food? Guilty pleasure snack? What music do you want playing in your villa when you arrive?
It's all there for the choosing.
The arrival into Soneva Jani itself is no less anticipatory. Guests exit the floating sea plane at Soneva's private "airport" -- a small, wooden dock in the middle of the sea -- before boarding a speed boat to be whisked to the arrival jetty, where they're greeted with fresh coconut water.
Retractable roofs, fine Chinese liquor and private pools
Soneva Jani's 24 water villas range from one-bedroom, 416 square-meter villas up to the four-bedroom 1,226-square meter option.
Each villa has its own lagoon-facing private pool that brilliantly mirrors the colors of the sea -- a few come with their own private water slides.
Prefer to stay on land? You'll have to book into the 1,752 square meter four-bedroom beach villa -- the only one that's not on stilts, well away from the other accommodations.
Among the most original options inside the villas, each master bedroom has its own retractable roof that slides back for stargazing.
There's also an en suite air-conditioned pantry stocked with an espresso machine, a wine fridge, snacks and beverages. A sign of the times, there's even a couple of bottles of high quality Baijiu liquor to cater to the resort's growing number of Chinese guests.
For more on the villa amenities check out the above gallery.
Leave the suit and tie at home
So is Soneva Jani worth the price? It all depends what kind of traveler you are.
Luxurious as it is, Soneva Jani isn't for everyone.
Traditional luxury travelers who demand dress codes, opulence and formalities will want to avoid this place.
This is a resort for execs who prefer to ditch the suit and tie or the high heels -- in fact you're asked to kick off your shoes and put them in a bag as soon as you land, as part of the resort's "no news, no shoes" motto.
"The philosophy of the Soneva brand is about slow life, it's about intelligent luxury," says Soneva Jani resort manager Fathimath Shaazleen.
"When the guests arrive on the island we want to make them feel relaxed."
Soneva Jani's typical guest?
"I would say that the travelers who come to Soneva are well traveled, they are concerned about the environment and the footprint they will be making," says Shaazleen. "At the same time, they will be looking to have a great experience."
Mr. and Mrs. Friday
Another highlight of Soneva is getting to know your personal host, Mr. -- or Mrs. -- Friday.
During a recent visit, our "Mr. Friday " was the indefatigable Laamey, a born and bred Maldivian.
He pulled quadruple duty as concierge, raconteur, chauffeur and naturist, explaining the flora and fauna with great enthusiasm as he took us on a resort tour in a golf buggy, later joining us on a private sunset boat tour in search of dolphins (we saw several bottle-nosed beauties jumping in front of the boat).
The Mr. Friday idea was hatched at the Soneva brand's other Maldives resort, Soneva Fushi, which opened in 1995.
"The whole concept of Soneva Fushi, the experience, was based on Robinson Crusoe. And that's how the concept of Mr. and Mrs. Friday came in," says Shaazleen, who has worked at all three of the brand's resorts.
"We wanted to have someone guide the guests through their experiences while they are staying at any of the Soneva properties. That person is not a typical butler, but someone who's more like a host."
Privacy guaranteed
Due to the small number of villas, the resort feels blessedly empty and quiet -- with the exception of breakfast hours, when many guests pedal their Soneva-issued bikes down the boardwalk to "The Gathering" for their first meal of the day.
Tempting as it is to stay poolside in your villa with a book, there's a top-class water sports center offering complimentary kayaks, stand-up paddleboards, windsurfing, kite-surfing and catamarans.
Boats can be booked for private or group snorkeling and diving excursions.
Among the must-try culinary options is a private beach dining experience, available for any meal.
When hunger pangs hit outside of meal times, there's complimentary ice cream, chocolate and cheese in "The Gathering."
Astronomy buffs can go stargazing at the onsite observatory but for stars of a different sort there's Cinema Paradiso, the resort's over-water theater.
During our visit they were screening "Scent of a Woman." Guests curled up in amongst pillows and blankets on the "catamaran nets"-- all wearing Bluetooth headphones.
Why the headsets? Turns out the echoes of Al Pacino yelling "Whoo-ah" across the lagoon might spook the area's nesting birds.
Indeed, Soneva Jani doesn't just pay lip service to issues of sustainability and the environment.
The resort itself was built with all sustainable material. Most of the menu items are organic, and all waste is sent to the resort's eco-center for processing. Soneva Jani also produces its own water, which is served in glass bottles to cut down on plastic.
"It's not just waste management, we call it the waste wealth," says Shaazleen. "So we make sure that it's all reused, whatever small thing it is."

10 things to know before you go to Mexico City

Mexico City began as the home of an ancient empire and grew into a massive, modern metropolis.
With more than 20 million people pulsing through its streets, it's one of the world's largest cities. That big-city bustle brings with it delicious food, massive markets and more cultural events in a day than anyone can ever keep track of.

1. Looking to set a quirky record? Try it here.
One big perk of having so many people in the same place: It's easy to set a record if you can persuade enough of them to do the same thing at the same time.
Records for the most people kissing simultaneously (39,879), the most people dancing to Michael Jackson's "Thriller" at the same time (13,597) and the world's biggest enchilada (weighing nearly 1.5 tons) have all been set inside the Mexican capital, according to Guinness World Records.
2. Gays and lesbians are welcome
For years, Latin America's deep-rooted ties to the Roman Catholic Church meant much of the region tended to take a more conservative tack when it came to homosexuality. But that's started to shift in recent years, and Mexico City has been at the forefront.
Same-sex marriage is legal there. So is adoption by same-sex couples. And the city has marketed itself as a destination for gay tourists. In 2010, the city offered a free honeymoon to Latin America's first gay couple to wed.
3. The smog? They're working on it.
Pollution in Mexico City used to be so bad that children painting pictures of the sky reportedly would color it gray, not blue.
Because of its geographic location -- in a valley between mountains -- and the sheer number of cars traveling its streets, smog is a problem the city is still battling. But with government programs that encourage bike-riding and limit the number of days motorists can take to the streets, longtime residents say the pollution problem is much better than it used to be.
Another innovative solution debuted last year: a hospital tower covered with a facade designed to "eat smog," breaking down pollutants when the sun hits it. Designers say the tiles on the facade of the Manuel Gea Gonzalez Hospital neutralize the effects of 1,000 cars every day.
4. The city was built on a lake
It's hard to imagine now, but much of the sprawling concrete jungle that now makes up Mexico City was once a large lake.
The Aztecs constructed a massive civilization there, with Tenochtitlan serving as the capital.
That city, which started out on an island and expanded to include reclaimed parts of the lake, thrived until the Spanish conquest. After winning the battle for control of the area in 1521, Spaniards destroyed Tenochtitlan and built Mexico City on top of its ruins, using canals and roads from the Aztec city as the basis for new streets and eventually draining the lake.
But they didn't entirely erase the past. That's made for some fascinating ancient finds as Mexico City grew into a modern urban metropolis.
In 1978, electrical company workers digging near the city's central square came upon an Aztec relic. That led to archaeologists unearthing ruins of the Templo Mayor, an Aztec temple that's now a popular tourist destination in Mexico City.
5. It's sinking
It turns out the dried-out bed of a big lake isn't the best foundation for building construction. If you want proof, take a look at some of Mexico City's most iconic structures.
The sloped floor and a swinging pendulum inside the Metropolitan Cathedral show that the building is decidedly tilted.
Head up Reforma Avenue to the Angel of Independence, and you'll need to walk up steps that the city built over the years as the area around the 1910 monument sank.
Government officials have estimated that the city is sinking at a rate of 10 centimeters (4 inches) per year. A recent government report (PDF) estimated that Mexico City has sunk 10 meters (32.8 feet) in the past 60 years.
6. One of the world's richest men lives here
Mexican telecom mogul Carlos Slim topped Forbes Magazine's list of the world's richest men for four years. Microsoft founder Bill Gates reclaimed the No. 1 spot this year. But Slim and his family, with an estimated net worth of $71.4 billion, are still sitting comfortably in second place. Slim lives in Mexico City, and many of the companies he controls are based there, too. Even if you're just passing through the city, you're bound to come across his holdings.
Talking on a Mexican cell phone? It's pretty likely that it's tied to Slim's company, Telcel, which controls 70% of Mexico's wireless market.
Swinging by a department store? If you spend any time in Mexico City, you'll probably find a reason to stop at Sanborns, Slim's ubiquitous chain that contains restaurants, pharmacies and retail goods.
Admiring beautiful buildings in the city's historic center? Slim helped finance a major facelift there in recent years.
7. It's safer than some parts of the country
Many Mexicans used to fear traveling to their nation's capital, concerned about crime. Street assaults and kidnapping are still major worries for residents and visitors. And in high-end neighborhoods, you might find a store selling bulletproof glass near a designer clothing boutique.
But the city's homicide rate is on par with other major metropolises around the world. And with drug violence plaguing other parts of the country, Mexico City has actually earned a reputation as one of the safer places to go.
8. It's not just tacos and tequila
Don't expect to find much cheesy Tex-Mex fare here. The Mexico City culinary scene is muy caliente, with fancy restaurants in posh hotels and top chefs saying they come here for inspiration.
Pujol, a restaurant in the city's posh Polanco neighborhood, ranks among the world's top eateries. But it's not all about fine dining. Market stalls and street stands serve up some of the city's most delicious food.
If you're looking for tequila, it's not hard to get it. But if you want to drink like a local, try mezcal or pulque. All three drinks are made from agave plants. Tequila comes from blue agave. Mezcal can be made from different types of agave plants and has become a popular drink for hipsters in Mexico's capital. So has pulque, a 2,000-year-old Aztec drink made from fermented but undistilled agave juice.
9. The subway is fast, cheap and fascinating
While many businessmen and foreigners who live in the city rely on taxis and car services, Mexico City's metro is still the most popular way to get around for the masses.
Protests after authorities announced plans to raise fees last year weren't successful. But taking the subway is still pretty cheap: just 5 pesos (about 40 cents) for a ticket.
And it's not just a way to get from point A to point B. For some people, stations on the city's 12 subway lines are a destination. There are shops, libraries, art exhibits and even computer labs inside.
A pedestrian tunnel between two subway stations in the heart of the city boasts more than 40 bookstores.
10. It's not all loud noise and concrete
If you need a break from the bustle, it takes only a short subway ride in Mexico City to reach places where you'll feel like you stepped back in time. Neighborhoods such as San Angel and Coyoacan (where artists Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo made their home) have cobblestone streets, beautiful buildings and quaint cafes that will give you a chance to catch your breath.

Paradise found: 12 crowd-free Asia island escapes

Finding an empty beach in Asia was a breeze a few decades ago, but it's not quite so easy anymore.

As zealous souvenir hawkers follow busloads of tour groups to Asia's most famous islands, discerning travelers must look farther afield for more authentic getaways.
The good news? Whether your idea of paradise involves a tropical beach framed by palm trees, or wildlife encounters in the woods, Asia has an island for you.
From Indonesia to India, we've singled out a dozen of the best throw-back islands -- places where traditional cultures and unspoiled landscapes will transport travelers back in time.
Koh Rong, Cambodia
Hidden away off the coast of Cambodia in the Gulf of Thailand, Koh Rong feels like a trip through time.
The low-key island offers a glimpse of what Ko Samui was like 30 years ago.
While both the American and French versions of "Survivor" TV show were filmed in Koh Rong, the island is still far from the typical tourist track.
With 23 beaches, Koh Rong offers plenty of options for sun, sea and sand, while the heavily forested interior beckons those in search of raw nature.
Most of the accommodation options on the island are backpacker-friendly while the upscale Song Saa Private Island resort appeals to island-hoppers looking for all the creature comforts.
Pangkor, Malaysia
A tiny island off the west coast of Malaysia, Pangkor is overshadowed by heavyweight destinations like Penang and Langkawi.
But that's a good thing for anyone who longs for a more authentic experience.
Pangkor's east coast is spangled by stilt houses in old-fashioned kampong villages, where fishing and boat-building are still the main occupations.
Meanwhile, the gorgeous west coast offers white-sand stretches wrapped around turquoise bays.
Among local landmarks are the ruins of the 17th-century Dutch Fort and Fu Lin Gong Temple, with its extravagant Taoist sculptures and miniature version of China's Great Wall.
You can crash at one of the modest beach bungalows along Coral Bay or splash out at the posh Pangkor Laut Resort.
Lampi, Myanmar
The largest island in a marine national park of the same name, Lampi blends virgin rainforest, secluded beaches, coral gardens and local maritime traditions.
The area is teeming with wildlife, running the gamut from pangolins (like small, scaly anteaters) to colorful hornbills, flying foxes, "dugong" manatees, sea turtles and dozens of coral and tropical fish species.
In addition to wildlife, Lampi is also a refuge for the Moken "sea gypsies" -- one of Myanmar's smallest ethnic groups -- who have lived on the island for generations.
Within the national park boundaries are five Moken villages, as well as several related spiritual and cultural sites.
The largest Moken village is located on neighboring Bo Cho island -- part of Myanmar's first marine national park, established in 1996.
To protect the park, Italian nonprofit group Oikos has partnered with Myanmar officials.
The institute maintains a research station on Bo Cho with a small museum dedicated to Lampi's flora, fauna and Moken heritage.
Andaman Islands, India
Framed by the Bay of Bengal and the Andaman Sea, the Andaman archipelago is a mash-up of modern mainland India and old-world keepsakes -- not to mention countless beaches, bays and coral reefs.
In this tropical backwater, visitors can mingle with the early morning cows and fishermen on Corbyn's Cove Beach, or scuba in the warm waters of Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park, and soak up the exotic sights and smells of Aberdeen Bazaar in Port Blair -- the capital of the Andaman and Nicobar Islands.
Once a far-flung bastion of the British Empire, the Andamans are flush with colonial relics.
Explore the jungle-shrouded ruins on Ross Island, the gallows on Viper Island and the infamous Cellular Jail -- where murderers and political prisoners were once incarcerated.
Just looking to relax? A short ferry ride from Port Blair, Havelock Island has transformed in recent years from a backpacker hangout into a hub of chic boutiques like the Barefoot at Havelock resort.
Palawan, The Philippines
Anchoring the southwest corner of the Philippines, Palawan is a largely undeveloped island that channels the wild vibe of nearby Borneo, in Malaysia.
The island's natural treasures include eerie Puerto-Princesa Subterranean River and the pristine coral gardens of super-remote Tubbataha Reefs Natural Park -- both UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
Along the northwest coast, Long Beach near San Vicente is the longest white-sand strand in the Philippines -- eight miles (13 km) of pristine shoreline that's so far unsullied by anything resembling a high-rise hotel or modern resort.
That's not to say there aren't cool places to crash nearby.
El Nido Resorts offers over-water bungalows at four secluded locations along Palawan's northern coastline.
Tokunoshima, Japan
One of the Amami islands south of the Japanese mainland, Tokunoshima is known for its bloodless bullfighting.
The bovine equivalent of sumo wrestling, the events see massive bulls try to push one another out of a ring surrounded by cheering farmers -- many of whom placed bets on the beasts.
Aside from quirky past times, Tokunoshima also draws those in the know to its pristine coral reefs -- as one of the most secluded places to scuba or snorkel in the western Pacific.
Empty beaches, weird coastal rock formations and obscure World War II landmarks add to the island's offbeat allure.
Tokunoshima is famous for yet another reason: longevity.
The island is home to the world's highest percentage of people living beyond 100 years.
Japanese centenarian Shigechiyo Izumi (1865-1986), who reached the age of 120, claimed a daily swig of shochu -- local sugarcane wine -- was the secret to his ripe old age.
Raja Ampat, Indonesia
Southeast Asia meets the South Pacific in this exotic archipelago, located off the west coast of New Guinea in far eastern Indonesia.
Considered one of the world's top dive spots, Raja Ampat is home to largely untouched coral reefs that are teeming with biodiversity.
Though scientists are still studying the ecosystem, the WWF counts more than 1,300 species of coral reef fish and five species of rare and endangered sea turtles among the wealth of sea creatures.
Above the surface, Raja Ampat's dramatic karst topography -- think southern Thailand without a thousand hotels -- is ripe for jungle walks and rock climbing.
But it takes some work to reach this scuba divers' paradise.
The islands can be reached via a six-hour flight from Jakarta or small ship-adventure cruises offered by the likes of Coral Expeditions.
Ulleung-Do, South Korea
Floating far out in the Sea of Japan, this remote volcanic island can only be reached by ferry.
Despite its isolated position about 75 miles east of mainland South Korea, Ulleung-Do has been inhabited since 300 BC.
Today, the island sustains a thriving fishing community and budding tourist industry.
Adventure travelers appreciate the island's silver magnolia forest and steep volcanic terrain.
There's also a 43-mile (70 km) bike path, as well as an opportunity for scuba diving and sea kayaking along the dramatic sea cliffs.
Ulleung draws a following for its unique culinary traditions too.
The must-try dishes include fresh-off-the-boat raw seafood, organic barbecued beef bulgogi from island-bred cows, and "sanchae bibimbap" -- steamed rice served with wilds herbs, vegetables and roots foraged on the island.
Con Dao, Vietnam
Once a penal colony known as the Devil's Island of French Indochina, this 16-island archipelago off the Mekong Delta has turned to more peaceful pursuits in modern times.
Reachable by flight from Ho Chi Minh City or ferry from Vung Tau, Con Dao offers coral reefs, palm-shaded beaches, rainforest trails and chic beach hotels like the Six Senses Con Dao.
History buffs will revel in the island's role in the age of ocean exploration -- Marco Polo allegedly stepped ashore at Con Dao on his long return journey to Venice.
To learn more about the island's war-plagued past, travelers can explore the Revolutionary Museum -- located in the former French commander's residence -- or tour the old prisons on the main island.
The best way to get around Con Dao is via motorbike, easy to hire from most hotels or a local rental outfit.
Con Dao is a haven for outdoorsy types too, with plentiful scuba, snorkeling and fishing opportunities.
Between May and October, visitors can watch sea turtles lay their eggs, while the infants hatch and scramble into the sea.
Koh Phayam, Thailand
Thailand's beach scene is constantly changing, as resort areas expand to accommodate increasing tourist numbers.
But one island that continues to retain its retro past is Koh Phayam, off the coast of southern Ranong province in the Andaman Sea.
There is much debate about whether the island -- when seen from above -- resembles a giant manta ray or a massive kangaroo kicking its feet into the air.
But one thing is for sure: Koh Phayam is blissfully empty compared to Thailand's better known islands.
Phayam has a year-round population of just 500 people -- and there aren't many tourists either.
Accommodations are modest yet charming, including beach bungalow hotels like King Paradise Resort.
Most of the action centers around crescent-shaped Aow Yai Bay -- also known as Long Beach or Sunset Beach.
It's the go-to venue for beachfront dining, as well as after-dark parties.
Between May and October, the Indian Ocean churns up surfable waves along Aow Yai.
No matter what the time of year, Koh Phayam offers scuba and snorkeling, cycling, motorbiking, kayaking and surf fishing.
Samosir Island, Indonesia
A stop on Southeast Asia's old hippie trail, Samosir Island in north-central Sumatra offers a trip through time to the 1970s and '80s.
The volcanic island is known for its stunning location -- in the middle of Lake Toba, the largest volcanic lake in the world.
The lakeside cafes, bars and bungalows of Tuk Tuk village cater to a mix of young backpackers and intrepid older travelers, fhe latter in search of a place that summons snippets of the days when Bali had a similar carefree -- and budget-friendly -- vibe.
Samosir is also a stronghold of local Batak tribal culture, as well as a great place to hire a scooter for a cruise through the nearby rice paddies.
A meandering coastal road leads north from Tuk Tuk to the megalithic monuments of Ambarita -- an ancient Batak tribal village -- and the museum complex in Simanindo, where travelers can catch daily Batak dance performances.
Hokkaido, Japan
While much of Japan's huge northern island has been developed, a few corners of Hokkaido still offer a wild, untouched atmosphere.
Inhabited by brown bears, sea eagles and a host of other creatures, the island's diverse landscape features snow-capped volcanoes, hot springs, lakes and temperate northern forests.
The trees explode with color each fall and shed a sea of blossoms each spring.
The raw natural beauty of Hokkaido's national parks -- especially Daisetsuzan, Shiretoko and Akan in the northeast -- feels more like Alaska than what you would expect to find in Asia.
Another draw is the traditional Japanese onsen -- hot spring -- culture.
Hokkaido boasts 23 hot spring areas and 11 different types of onsen, from simple thermal and sulfur to lesser-known radium, ferruginous (iron oxide) and cupriferous (copper) springs.

10 best places for outdoor fun in New Zealand

Think of New Zealand and you probably picture vast tracts of unspoiled nature that provide everything from ski slopes to big waves.

Here are our picks of the 10 best wild places in New Zealand:
1. Great Barrier Island
"The Barrier," as it is locally known, is the fourth largest of New Zealand's islands. This rugged, mountainous landmass is the last stop on the outer edge of the Hauraki Gulf before the vast blue of the Pacific Ocean. Ninety kilometers from downtown Auckland, it's off the national electricity grid, and boasts a range of stunning beaches, from wild surf to lazy lagoons.
Accommodation is provided with a wide range of "baches" -- the traditional New Zealand equivalent of a basic cabin. Today, this can mean anything from a luxury beach house to a one-bedroom eyrie in the mountains. During summer, get there via a two-hour Fuller's Ferries journey or fly year-round in 30 minutes with Great Barrier Airlines.
2. Learn to surf at Raglan
Reenact your own "Endless Summer" at one of New Zealand's classic surf towns. Raglan's Manu Bay was featured in the iconic 1966 film, with good reason -- it's well known for possessing the longest left-hand break in the world.
A particularly good wave can carry a surfer up to two kilometers. Which implies one mean paddle to get back to the original drop-in point. The town itself is as laid-back and surfer-friendly as a Kiwi small town can be, with a pretty main street and plenty of hearty fare, beer and local accommodation on offer.
3. Maruia Springs
Head inland along Lewis Pass, off the well-beaten route down the east coast of the South Island, to the stunning Southern Alps and the Hanmer Springs spa village.
Drive further west to the smaller and less touristy Maruia Springs, which has thermal mineral pools in an idyllic natural setting. Camping is available here or at the small Department of Conservation-run Deer Valley site 10 kilometers up the road.
4. Auckland's west coast beaches
Karekare, Muriwai, Piha and Bethell's Beach occupy special places in the hearts of Aucklanders.
Though within easy driving distance of the city centre, the beaches are separated from it by the misty Waitakere Ranges, through which narrow roads gradually wind down to the wild coastline. They are big in every sense of the word: big beaches of black volcanic sand disappearing into the distance, big rocks and big surf.
Generations of hippies, artists and surfers have made their homes here. Each beach has its own character, from the aching isolation of Karekare (captured in the 1993 film "The Piano"), to the surfer community at Piha, to the dozens of outdoor activity spots at Muriwai Regional Park.
5. Milford Sound
Described by Rudyard Kipling as "the eighth wonder of the world," Milford Sound is justifiably New Zealand's top tourist destination.
Situated in Fiordland National Park, the narrow sea entrance hides wide, pristine interior bays -- actually a fiord -- framed by sheer rock faces rising to more than 1,200 meters, lush rain forest and waterfalls. Seals, penguins, dolphins and the occasional whale visit the waters.
Several scenic cruises are available, as well as an underwater observatory providing views of the black coral and marine life. Getting to Milford Sound is easiest by plane or helicopter -- both are perfect ways to get a great view of the Sound. Driving is also possible, though the route is long and winding.
6. The Milford Track
The Sound is also the end point of the 53-kilometer Milford Track, the jewel in the crown of the Department of Conservation's (DOC) "Great Walks" -- a set of well-maintained hiking tracks specifically designed to allow visitors to see the country's best, and otherwise inaccessible, scenic areas.
The DOC also manages comfortable, well-equipped cabins which, due to their popularity, operate on a booking system to manage visitor numbers.
The Milford Track begins at the head of Lake Te Anau, which can be reached by ferry or by climbing Dore Pass from the Milford Sound Road. Likewise, Sandfly Point, at the Milford Sound end, can be reached only by sea.
7. Tongariro National Park
Tongariro, New Zealand's first national park and a World Heritage area, contains three major peaks -- Tongariro, Ruapeha and Ngauruhoe.
A natural hotspot for hikers, its most famous track, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, passes through spectacular volcanic terrain -- much of it still active.
The six- to-eight hour route takes in lava flows, an active crater, steam vents and emerald-colored lakes. The small ski town of Ohakune is also located at the southern end of the park, on Ruapehu's Southwestern slopes, and acts as a base for skiers and snowboarders using the nearby Turoa ski field.
8. Rotorua geothermal zone
Three hours' drive from Auckland, Rotorua is the country's primary geothermal area, boasting a wide variety of hot springs, geysers and Maori cultural attractions.
It's well worth spending an hour or two at Wai-O-Tapu hot springs on the geothermal high road of SH5 to inhale the sulphur and see different types of thermal pools and bubbling mud in action.
The Polynesia Spa is routinely voted one of the top 10 spas in the world, and offers bathing in alkaline rock pools of varying temperatures.
9. Queenstown
Visitors come to this beautiful alpine town at the edge of Lake Wakatipu for the skiing in the colder months and for its spectacular beauty year-round. They also get a lively atmosphere.
Queenstown manages to combine a down-to-earth small town vibe with top-notch slopes at nearby Cardrona Alpine Resort, Coronet Peak, The Remarkables and Treble Cone.
Also within reach is Arrowtown, a former gold rush site, that maintains its heritage status without being twee. It's home to Saffron restaurant, which showcases the best central Otago cuisine with a global influence.
In Queenstown, the dining scene is well established with some top restaurants. Wai and The Bunker offer excellent finer dining feeds. Advance bookings are recommended. Fergburger is a required pilgrimage for burger fans. Just expect to join a throng of other worshippers.
10. Franz Josef Glacier
The 12-kilometer-long Franz Josef Glacier in Westland Tai Poutini National Park is one of the fastest flowing glaciers in the world. Its cyclic process of advance and retreat has at times seen it extend more than 70 centimeters a day; a flow rate 10 times that of other glaciers.
It is also unique in that it runs from the peaks of the Southern Alps to a rain forest growing just 300 meters above sea level.
The glacier's Maori name (Ka Roimata o Hinehukatere) refers to the legend of the tears of adventurous, mountain climbing Hinehukatere, whose lover Wawe was swept away by an avalanche, leaving her brokenhearted. The most popular way to access the glacier is via helicopter, which drops visitors at the first or second icefall for a guided walk through the daily changing glacial landscape and ice tunnels.

Visiting Vietnam? Insiders tips

Whatever the movies have taught you about Vietnam, forget it. This country is shedding its old look, disrobing itself of the heavy cloak of history to become a pulsating, spirited destination able not just to compete, but to surpass its peers in the region.You want to spend? Try a shopping trip to Ho Chi Minh City's sparkling high-rise malls. You want to lounge? Head for any of the beaches and luxury resorts that dot the coast. You want to party till dawn, breakfast on a boat and explore caves and diving spots in the afternoon?

Vietnam not only has you covered, it'll have first-timers wondering why they never made the trip out before and old hands already planning what to do in Vietnam next year.
HANOI
The best place to begin in Hanoi is with the city's top tourist draw -- the Old Quarter. Here centuries of commerce can be charted amid labyrinthine streets and tiny alleyways.
Hanoi, however, isn't all about classic images of old Asia. You'll find classy lounges that wouldn't be out of place in any world metropolis and bohemian hangouts where locals, foreign residents and visitors gather to soak in the atmosphere. If you're wondering what to do in Vietnam, and where to start, Hanoi is a good welcomer.
Hotels
Luxury
Hanoi Sofitel Plaza
Previously looked upon as the poor relation of Hanoi's two Sofitel-owned properties (hardly surprising when the other is the revered Metropole Hotel), the Sofitel Plaza was re-launched in April this year following a major refurbishment.
The new look is an appealing blend of Oriental charm and contemporary elegance. Major attractions include the setting near West Lake and lofty Summit Lounge bar on the hotel's 20th floor.
Mid-range
InterContinental West Lake
You'll get a modicum of peace away from the city's insane traffic on the shores of bucolic Tay Ho (West Lake) at InterContinental's impressive Hanoi property. Rooms in the main building are everything you'd expect from a major international chain, but for something a little more secluded book a room in one of the pavilions that jut out onto the surface of the water.
Budget
Golden Silk Hotel
Smart, well-appointed, good value. One of several smart, intimate boutique hotels that have muscled in on Hanoi's hospitality scene, Golden Silk doesn't try too hard to be trendy. That's a good thing.
It has smart, trim, comfortable and tasteful rooms and friendly service -- a good value in the heart of the Old Quarter. Extra touches include a mini-bar and a steam room and Jacuzzi.
Dining
Quan An Ngon
Rarely has a name been so apt. The English translation of this flawless venue is "delicious restaurant." The concept is simple yet ingenious.
Much of the best food in Vietnam can be found on the streets -- the owners here have decided to serve local street staples in more upmarket surroundings.Gentrification hasn't come at the cost of authenticity. If you're fortunate enough to be eating with a local you'll navigate the menu easily.
If you're clueless just take a stab in the dark -- it's all good. The salads are exemplary, especially the goi ngo sen (lotus stem salad with shrimp and pork).
Quan An Ngon, 18 Phan Boi Chau Hoan Kiem Dist, Hanoi Vietnam; +84 4 3942 8162
Pots 'n Pans
Founded by graduates from KOTO -- a Hanoi restaurant that works to train homeless and disadvantaged children in hospitality skills -- Pots and Pans is one of the city's best dining venues.
The food blends fresh Vietnamese produce with international cooking techniques and presentation. Dishes such as pork hock croquettes and Australian beef rolled in betel leaf prove that "fusion" is still a culinary style with lots of territory to explore.
El Gaucho Argentinean Steakhouse
Argentineans are generally as adept at handling premium slices of beef as they are at kicking a football around -- this new outlet hits the mark as unerringly as a Lionel Messi free kick. The smart interior, which includes relaxed downstairs seating at the bar and a more formal dining area upstairs, is dotted with arty images of Latin America.
The menu is meat-dominated. A full range of grilled items is available, but the star attractions are the steaks, which include flawless Wagyu tenderloin and prime USDA Angus rib eye.
Halia Hanoi
Halia Hanoi is one of the city's few fine-dining places worthy of the term, having won a string of accolades and a loyal audience since opening two years back.
Fusion is the ethos here, with fresh Asian ingredients and marinating techniques that wouldn't be out of place in Paris. Standout dishes such as slow-cooked duck breast with chestnut stuffing and a tender poached cod with mushrooms and Chinese spices nail the brief with nonchalant flair.
Nightlife
Tadioto
Another venue that marks Hanoi out as artier than anywhere else in Vietnam, Tadioto is the brainchild of poet, scriptwriter, journalist and all round Renaissance man Nguyen Qui Duc. The venue serves as a gathering point for the city's creative and intellectual set.
While most easily described as a bar, it's also a forum for the arts with literary readings, installations, live music and exhibitions.
Hanoi Rock City
Hanoi Rock City is proof that despite a midnight curfew, Hanoi has nonetheless developed a hip nightlife scene. Outdoors, a massive English-style beer garden -- complete with giant screen for big sporting events -- packs in revelers most nights.
The upstairs space is dedicated to all things musical, with live bands, and DJs playing everything from straight ahead indie and rock to dubstep, heavy bass and reggae.
CAMA ATK Bar
The CAMA guys have been providing righteous light in the general murk that is Vietnam's left field music scene for more than five years. The independent promoters put on an annual music festival that's the closest thing Vietnam has to Glastonbury, bringing more than 50 international acts to the country since starting out.
This, their latest venue, draws the city's music lovers with its eclectic program of live acts and DJs. With a range of potent cocktails and local and imported beers, the bar is a convivial place even if there's nothing on.
Shopping/attractions
Old Quarter
In many ways the Old Quarter is the Asia of popular imagination: vibrant and often stomach-turning market scenes, vendors in conical hats and hidden pagodas patrolled by impassive cats and shaven-headed monks. Shopping opportunities abound at markets such as Dong Xuan and streets such as Hang Gai (silk) and Hang Da (leather).
Meanwhile, the area's famous Communal Houses -- mini-temples that are mostly protected from the street by well-disguised entrances -- provide respite from the bustle.
True Colors Street Food Tour
Dining possibilities may be endless in Hanoi, but most visitors don't even manage to get beyond the basics. That's why Daniel Hoyer is a godsend.
A well regarded chef in Hanoi, he knows the capital's mind-boggling street food culture as intimately as anyone. His full- and half-day tours introduce participants to an array of local (and always excellent) fare they wouldn't have a hope of finding on their own.
Vietnam Museum of Ethnology
Ho Chi Minh's mausoleum draws more tourists, but when it comes to investigating Vietnam's rich tapestry of cultures this excellent museum is the best place to start.
Vietnam has around 54 ethnic minority groups -- mostly in the mountainous regions.
In contrast to other museums in Vietnam, most of which are either politically skewed or offer little or no meaningful insight, this one details its subject matter intelligently through a range of media, including video and photography as well as costumes, tools, implements and arts and crafts.
HO CHI MINH CITY
Also known as Saigon, Ho Chi Minh City is changing at a pace that would shame the most reckless of motorcycle taxi drivers.
Business towers, office blocks, glitzy shopping malls, high-end real estate developments, urban regeneration projects, visually stunning new bridges -- you name it, this city has got it and is about to get much more of it. While all the progress is sometimes mourned by old timers, life is never dull when you're in the thick of it. In fact, it's the city's limitless vitality that furnishes much of its allure.
Hotels
Luxury
Park Hyatt Saigon
Probably the most prestigious address in Saigon, the city's Hyatt is a five-star hotel among the cluster of properties flanking the Opera House and Lam Son Square, ideal for business travelers and tourists who like to vacation in splendor. Rooms run from functional luxury to unforgettable opulence.
There's a giant pool to lounge by and a high quality spa for pampering. The hotel's 2 Lam Son Bar could well be one of the most stylish lobby bars in the world, while its restaurants are among the best high-end options in the city.
An Lam Saigon River Private Residence
A 15-minute speedboat ride from downtown Saigon, this boutique resort couldn't feel further from the vehicular insanity and thick smog that characterizes Vietnam's largest city. With 14 rooms -- a mixture of opulent riverfront villas with private pools and smaller but still special accommodations -- the property is intimate and peaceful. The main pool is shaded by tropical foliage while the restaurant and deck bar are ideal for riverside down time.
Mid-range
Hotel Nikko Saigon
This recent addition to the business hotel scene offers spanking new rooms with a contemporary trim and an average room size of 40 square meters. They're among the most spacious in their class in the city.
The hotel is near the Saigon River and close to all the action downtown. Restaurant options include Ming Court (Chinese) and Fuji (Japanese).
Dining
Cuc Gach Quan
Despite serving some of the best Vietnamese food in the city in a serene converted house, Cuc Gach Quan's location on the outer limits of District 1 is often a deterrent to short-term visitors. It shouldn't be.
As it is at many Vietnamese restaurants, the menu is tome-like. Homemade tofu is creamy and pliant and sure to convince the doubters. Other highlights include soft shell crab and beautifully textured red rice. An extensive wine list and reasonable prices make it even more imperative to steer a course here.
Monsoon
With its airy setting and immaculate interior design, Monsoon feels like a top-end venue, but stays true to the Asian street dining idea of great food at low prices.
With Cambodian, Vietnamese, Burmese, Thai and Laotian offerings, it's the only place in town where diners can mix and match a banquet from across mainland Southeast Asia. Top picks include a sweet pork curry from Myanmar and a flawless take on Khmer fish Amok.
Banh Xeo 46A
It's not hard to see why the banh xeo ("sizzling pancake") has become such a hit with foreigners. Unlike some Vietnamese creations, there are no challenges or nasty surprises.
Rice flour, water, turmeric powder (the source of the pancakes' vibrant yellow coloring) and coconut milk are combined to make the batter, which is stuffed with fatty pork, shrimp and bean sprouts, then pan-fried. The crisp result is served alongside a veritable hedgerow of aromatic herbs and dipped in nuoc cham (fish sauce thinned with water and lemon). This is one of the most addictive treats in the Vietnamese culinary armory -- this is one of the best venues at which to get hooked.
Nightlife
Chill Skybar
The place to be seen, and to see. This is Saigon's most opulent sky bar. Since opening in October 2011 it has earned a lofty reputation with great cocktails and good food. The A-list Vietnamese celebs and models who have made this their watering hole of choice may beg to differ, but the real star of the show is the stunning view over Saigon.
Yoko
Saigon may be a party city, but cerebral types can have a tough task tracking down bohemia. Hipster hangout Yoko, however, offers respite from all the dumb fun.
While some of the cover bands are merely so-so, this is the place where Saigon musicians convene for some decent sets and jam sessions. Throw reasonably priced drinks and comfortable sofas into the mix and you've got a recipe for a cool, unpretentious, bar -- a simple, but rare concept in HCMC.
Lush
Every upwardly mobile metropolis needs a place for its beautiful people to preen, and this is Saigon's. Most nights of the week, the city's stylish set check each other out over expensive cocktails on the crowded terrace, one of the classiest pick-up spots in town.
Top international DJs don't tend to make the detour from Bangkok, KL and Singapore, but when they do they usually end up here, meaning there's a better than average hits-to-misses ratio with the music. Tuesday's Ladies Night is a particularly popular weekly event.
Shopping/attractions
Ben Thanh Market
The daddy of Saigon's many markets, Ben Thanh is by far the most popular tourist shopping spot in the city. From buckets of jumping frogs in the wet market to clothes, fabrics and souvenirs in the teeming narrow alleys, this place puts the "Ay!" into buying.
Prices are somewhat higher than at markets elsewhere and only the hardest of bargainers are rewarded with anything approaching a good deal. Nevertheless, it's a lively experience and several great food stalls at the back of the market make it a fine place to take a crash course in Vietnamese street cuisine.
Sophie's Art Tour
Devised by English émigré Sophie Hughes, Sophie's Art Tour looks at Vietnam's tumultuous history through the eyes of its artists. The timeline of colonialism, war, communism and breakneck free-market development is familiar to most visitors, but the art these phases inspired is generally not.
Hughes spent nearly a year researching the tour, interviewing experts, artists and collectors, and the result is a fascinating introduction to Vietnamese art and a compelling history lesson.
Reunification Palace
The striking modern building was built on the site of the palace of the French governor-general of Cochin China in the early 1960s and its design (by Paris-trained Vietnamese architect Ngo Viet Thu) remains one of the finest examples of modern architecture in the city.
When a North Vietnamese tank crashed through the wrought iron gates on April 30, 1975, it sounded the death knell for the South Vietnamese government. A replica of the tank still sits on the lawn while attractions inside include the grand Presidential Receiving Room and an eerie basement with telecommunications center, war room and network of tunnels.
Beaches
Although it lacks the reputation for beautiful beaches accorded to Thailand or the Philippines, beach lovers won't feel shortchanged by the beaches found along Vietnam's snaking coastline.
Most tourists head for the resort hot spots of Danang, Hoi An, Nha Trang and Mui Ne, but there's a plethora of unsung havens where pulling up a sun lounger and slapping on the SPF 30 will be the limit to your exertions.
Danang
Luxury and charm at the Danang Sun Peninsula Resort. Previously used by tourists as a hopping-off point for the nearby heritage town of Hoi An, Danang is staking a claim as Vietnam's top beach destination.
Several big name hotel brands have set up by the shores of the South China Sea and a spanking new airport terminal is another clue to the city's ambitions. It's got a lot going for it. Danang's portion of China Beach is clean and broad while the views of the mountainous Son Tra Peninsula are great.
Throw in the easy access to prime sights and attractions such as Hoi An, the Cham ruins at My Son and some great golf courses and you can see why Danang is gaining in popularity.
Nha Trang
It has its critics -- National Geographic has been especially disparaging -- but Nha Trang remains one of Vietnam's most popular beach towns. While the main beach can get overcrowded on weekends and in late afternoon, the beach is pleasant and the town has plenty of decent options for drinking, dining and accommodation.
For something a bit more relaxed, the idyllic beaches of Doc Let and Jungle Beach are found north of the city. Spotless white sands can be found south toward Cam Ranh Airport.
Phu Quoc
Vietnam's southernmost beach destination is a favorite for those who seek minimal distraction. You can visit a pearl farm or a fish sauce factory (Phu Quoc is famed for the stinky condiment). Most, however, prefer to kick back with a book, eat fresh seafood and float aimlessly in the bathtub-calm waters of the Gulf of Thailand.
Halong Bay
The jewel in Vietnam's crown, Halong Bay retains its luster despite grumbles of eco-vandalism and overcrowding. The sight of the scattered jungle-covered outcrops of karst rising up from the emerald water is unforgettable.
While it's true that the bay has become something of a victim of its own popularity -- many tours are predictable and yours will be one of hundreds of cameras trying to capture the majesty of the scenery at sunset -- it remains an essential stop on any Vietnam itinerary.
Sapa
The towering mountains in the far north of Vietnam on the border with China offer some of the country's most compelling visual and cultural stimuli. The hills around Sapa are home to a range of minorities, including Hmong, Dao, Giay, Pho, Lu and Tay, and the town serves as an ideal base for trekking among the tribes.
The scenery is awe-inspiring, with Vietnam's highest mountain, Fansipan (3,142 meters), dominating the view. Sapa itself has a thriving tourism industry, meaning that it's easy enough to hunker down at a bar or in a café on one of the frequent foggy days.
Hoi An
The UNESCO-protected ancient town is by far Vietnam's most tourist-friendly destination. Even those who don't particularly like the rest of the country usually come away with a good impression.
The narrow streets near the Thu Bon River are lined with beautifully preserved merchant houses, while narrow alleys lead to hidden temples and garden restaurants. Motor vehicles are banned from the old quarter, making this one place in Vietnam you can take a leisurely stroll without fear of being hit or honked at by an impatient motorist.
It's Vietnam lite, but the great dining scene, easy access to nearby China Beach and sheer prettiness of it all defies cynicism.
Further afield
Con Dao Islands
One of Vietnam's last frontiers, this former penal colony offers wild, untamed scenery, spotless beaches and one of the region's most important nesting grounds for sea turtles.
Con Dao was once a name that struck fear into French colonists and later Americans and their client regime in Saigon as the country turned into a fearsome cage for political opponents. The area's persona is significantly gentler these days, but it still remains a far cry from the more sanitized destinations on the mainland coast. The disused prison is a vivid reminder of darker times, but the archipelago's main draw is its natural attributes.
Ho Chi Minh Highway
The route between Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi has become a rite-of-passage motorbike adventure for many and taking the Ho Chi Minh Highway is the best way of doing it. Extending 1,235 kilometers from Kon Tum Province in the Central Highlands to Hoa Lac in Hanoi, the road passes through some of Vietnam's most spectacular scenery.
It's peaceful compared with the truck-clogged nightmare of Highway 1A, the country's main north/south highway. The route passes battlefields like Khe Sanh and the Ia Drang Valley, skirts tribal villages and offers easy access to some of the country's top attractions. Vietnam Motorbike Tour has day trips and tours.
Mekong Delta
Most visitors to Vietnam see the Mekong Delta, but the country's verdant rice bowl deserves more than just a one-day tour from Saigon.
A lush landscape of emerald green fields, shady woods and sleepy villages crisscrossed by canals and rivulets fed by the mighty river, the Delta is Vietnam's land of plenty. Formed by sediment deposited by the Mekong River, the area is one of the most fertile and productive in the world. One of the best ways to see it is by bicycle, from which the languid pace of daily life can be observed at leisure.

Island in the sun: Where to live large on Boracay

Snow isn't the only white powder you can find between your toes in winter.
Nor is a fireplace your most romantic source of heat.

To prove it, all you need to do is get to Boracay, perhaps the most alluring tropical island paradise in the Philippines.
It's a challenge choosing between accommodation options on Boracay, where every resort does its best to minimize the distance between the pristine white beach, shimmering water and your room.
That's why we've done the grunt work for you.
Although Boracay's main draw card is the five-kilometer-long White Beach, which has no shortage of hotels, restaurants, bars and shops, Boracay visitors can find tranquility in less developed corners.
From a resort where chefs dance to "Gangnam Style" to others with super-fresh seafood, these Boracay resorts play to the island's strengths.
Shangri-La's Boracay Resort and Spa
Shangri-La's Boracay Resort and Spa offers a secluded and exclusive luxury experience.
Upon arrival by air on Boracay's neighboring island of Caticlan, guests are whisked to Shangri-La's fragrant and air-conditioned lounge at the port.
From here it's around 20 minutes by private boat to the resort's own jetty on the edge of an eco-park.
The resort is set on a 12-hectare tropical garden above a 250-meter-long beach on the north-eastern corner of the island.
With over 200 rooms, suites and villas, four restaurants, two bars, spa, huge pool, shopping arcade and every other amenity one would expect from a five-star hotel, there's little reason to leave the grounds.
Rooms feature eco-friendly touches such as large re-fillable glass bottles of spring water -- a homey touch that cuts down on plastic waste -- and air conditioners that shut off automatically when balcony doors are opened.
Discovery Shores Boracay
Discovery Shores is a five-star resort, Shangri-La's most obvious competitor, although it has an entirely different look and feel -- more Miami chic than hidden oasis.
With 87 suites -- some have balcony jacuzzis -- Discovery Shores Boracay makes the most of its beach frontage at Station One, on the quieter end of White Beach.
As the sun dips toward the sea, a roaming troupe of butlers offer Evian water face sprays or choice of platitos (small plates of sweet and savory bites) as guests gather round the oval Sandbar or recline on beach lounge chairs on Discovery Shore's immaculately groomed strip of powdery sand.
Its two restaurants, Sands and Indigo bring fresh local produce to the fore.
Both are located steps away from White Beach. Indigo serves seafood-focused meals directly on the beach by candlelight.
Boracay Mandarin Island Hotel
Located in the thick of White Beach's Station Two, the privately owned Boracay Mandarin Island Hotel has 52 rooms and suites.
Most rooms face an attractive central swimming pool with fountains and hanging vines.
The pick of the rooms is the 90-square-meter Ambassador Suite, with dark wood panels, a four-poster bed, leather lounges and an expansive balcony with a Jacuzzi and view over White Beach.
Although located on one of the liveliest sections of the island, rooms remain quiet after midnight thanks to double-glazed windows.
Breakfast is served at Don Vito restaurant, a popular beachfront eatery where the daily catch is displayed on ice and live music is performed each evening.
The resort's Mandarin Spa overlooks the beach and offers a variety of massages and beauty treatments.
Boracay Regency Beach Resort and Spa
The hotel's East Wing is the popular for its Jacuzzi and sunken pool bar.
On White Beach Station Two, Boracay is a 302-room resort is the flagship property of Henann Group, which has the largest presence on the island with two other resorts: Henann Lagoon Resort and Henann Garden Resort.
Boracay Regency Beach Resort and Spa is one of the island's most successful resorts and, according to management, consistently operates at above 80% occupancy with many return guests.
Boracay Regency features a semi-private beach lounge area, pools, a small shopping mall, spa and seven restaurants.
The most popular of these is Seabreeze, which specializes in informal dining with an emphasis on steak and seafood.
Each evening guests and passersby crowd the foot path in front of Seabreeze to watch, photograph and video the restaurant's dancing chefs.
Their gyrations to "Gangnam Style" are particularly appreciated by the resort's core clientele from South Korea.
Asya Premier Suites
Located on the mostly undeveloped southern tip of Boracay, Asya Premier Suites Boracay is accessed via a winding road.
The five-year-old establishment is gaining a reputation as a romantic, chic and secluded wedding destination.
The boutique resort has 20 suites and four garden villas.
The design by Filipino architectural firm Locsin Group features numerous tropical touches, such as stained timber and traditional woven cane furniture and artwork.
The centerpiece of the symmetrical landscaped gardens is a large circular pool, which is intended for natural air conditioning more than for swimming; its shallow waters do a great job of absorbing heat.
Down the stairs from the pool, the resort's Palay serves dishes in modern Filipino style with attention to locally sourced ingredients.

Visiting Los Angeles? Insiders tips

Los Angeles is the entertainment capital of the Western world. But Los Angeles is also among the world's most diverse metropolitan areas and is the United States' second-most populous city, with roughly 80 interconnected neighborhoods.

Los Angeles County has almost 10 million residents. Or, as Dorothy Parker once called it, "72 suburbs in search of a city." From the cool-casual vibe of Santa Monica's Main Street to the Mid-City meccas of excess spanning Beverly Hills and the Sunset Strip, to the hipster's paradise of the East Side, Angelenos have a wide range of tastes and options.
The catch? Unless you like sitting in five lanes of bumper-to-bumper traffic, you've got to pick your best of Los Angeles priorities and plan accordingly. Here's how to enjoy star treatment in the City of Angels -- with or without the celebrity checkbook:
Hotels
Luxury
Shutters on the Beach
The hotel describes the vibe at Shutters as high style but low-key, an appropriate mindset for experiencing Los Angeles. With its proximity overlooking the Pacific Ocean and room appointments like John Robshaw comforters, in-room libraries and whirlpool tubs, however, L.A. will have to work double time to lure you out of your room.
Breezing through the double doors at Shutters feels like joining Oprah (and all of her favorite things) at her estate in Montecito. There's usually a roaring fire in the lobby lounge. Good thing, too: with the exception of the high summer months (July through September), it's surprisingly chilly at the beach.
Chateau Marmont
Opened as apartments during the Great Depression, the Chateau had to convert to a hotel after two years in business. Rumor has it The Eagles Grammy Award-winning "Hotel California" was inspired by this iconic chateau at the eastern edge of Hollywood's Sunset Strip.
Dennis Hopper hosted wilder-than-wild parties here. Comedian John Belushi succumbed to a heroin overdose in Bungalow 3.
"Touched with scandal and commemorated in literature," is how the Los Angeles Times put it. Whatever. You'll feel like a celeb yourself as you ride the elevator straight from the garage to your room, avoiding the front desk staff and the paparazzi.
The mojito at the always-fashionable Bar Marmont (where executive chef Carolynn Spence's menu includes pork cracklins and pumpkin ketchup) might just be the best in Los Angeles.
The Peninsula Beverly Hills
The Peninsula's 193 rooms and suites were renovated in 2011. If regular old five-star luxury doesn't cut it, there's always the Peninsula Beverly Hills. Just don't expect a raucous party.
Discretion is the order of the day here. Quiet elegance abounds, with conveniences including complimentary around-the clock-check in. The Peninsula is so fancy, this writer once ordered a glass of Champagne at teatime and the waiter automatically served Dom Pérignon.
Mid-range
The Viceroy
There's barely enough time in the day to explain why the Viceroy Santa Monica rocks. It's a block from the ocean (and the above-mentioned Shutters on the Beach, at half the price).
Its modern, art-deco style channels everything sexy about the 1960s and 1970s with none of the kitsch. The rooms, which are decent in size, use plates as decor and somehow pull it off. Basically, you get cooler just by being here.
Hotel Wilshire
Smack in the middle of a pedestrian strip of Wilshire Boulevard, adjacent to Beverly Hills, sits the newly opened Hotel Wilshire. The block isn't the sexiest, but the glass facade of this environmentally sustainable boutique property goes a long way toward classing up the area.
Staff are friendly and accommodating. For convenience, the location is unbeatable -- you really can get almost anywhere from here in 20 minutes.
The Redbury
Book a higher floor if you're in search of peace; The Redbury sits right next to Avalon nightclub.
So you want a record player in your room to go with your "in-flat" service from famed L.A. sushi den Katsuya? Sounds about right at The Redbury, a 2011 boutique addition to the revitalized Hollywood and Vine.
While the lobby is reminiscent of the black lodge in Twin Peaks, the sizable rooms themselves are more bohemian than Lynchian, with homey appointments like in-room washers and dryers, four-poster beds and vintage turntables with furnished records. And with all the trappings of quirky-cool sophistication in such a famed location, no wonder it's become a trend-seekers' mecca.
The Figueroa
The prices at this downtown home-away-from-home could qualify as budget in L.A., but the atmosphere is pure luxury. Located directly across the street from the Staples Center, even the most die-hard Lakers fans will forget what's outside once they enter this place.
The Marrakech Suite in particular feels like a hip, young sultan's boudoir. Odds are you'll see a famous face or 10, but nobody cares. Thankfully, everyone's too engrossed in the libido-lifting atmosphere to stargaze.
Budget
Beverly Laurel
Even on a budget, you can still lounge like an Angeleno. Convenient and trendy with 52 rooms and a great downstairs diner (the Swinger burger is fabulous), The Beverly Laurel is walking distance to art, shopping and drinking. It even has a lounge-able pool.
Rooms are basic, but with a retro style that's admirable at this price point in this area. Once you get past the people with handlebar moustaches and ironic T-shirts, that is.
Dining
Duplex on Third
Opened in July 2012, Duplex serves Anglenos something they've longed for since Le Colonial closed a decade ago: a quality restaurant with an equally fabulous bar in Mid-City.
Fans go apoplectic over the grilled peaches with di stefano burrata, grilled baguette pine nuts and salsa verde ($12). The $14 Queen Bee (a fruity little concoction of Ketel One vodka, elderflower liqueur, prosecco, pineapple juice, lemon juice and agave) could put a smile on even the sourest puss.
The staff couldn't be nicer, making the scene upscale, but not pretentious. If you can score a table in the sometimes-open upstairs lounge, you'll never want to leave. Unfortunately, sleeping on the Duplex's insanely comfy couches is not an option.
Red Medicine
At the tender age of 17, Chef Jordan Kahn was the youngest man ever to have worked in Thomas Keller's famed kitchen at The French Laundry. Whatever he learned there (or in his many ventures since), the results are almost indescribable. But let's give it a shot:
The Heirloom Rice Porridge with eggyolk, hazelnuts, ginseng and Échiré butter ($17) is a life-changer. The Coconut Bavarois with coffee, condensed milk, Thai basil and peanut croquant ($9) is hands-down the best dessert this writer has ever tasted.
Gjelina
You can't go wrong at Gjelina -- unless you're seated next to one of Venice's many trustafarian dilettante "artists." Then again, he (or she) will probably be with a model. If not, you can always get the take-out.
Seasonal veggies and small plates are great for sampling a broad section of locally sourced ingredients. The late-night menu sates munchies with sophistication -- even if you do go with the pizza. As hip as its name and industrial-chic decor suggest, Gjelina has proven staying power, which is more than can be said for that dilettante's date.
Singapore's Banana Leaf
Consistently good, but often great, the fish curry and mee goreng special at this walk-up in the middle of the historic Farmer's Market at 3rd Street and Fairfax Avenue offers a satisfying way to spend 10 bucks. You might even get away for less.
More importantly, it's the only restaurant of its kind in all of Los Angeles. While the stand doesn't serve alcohol, you can grab a beer or a glass of crisp white from one of the Farmer's Market bars. On weekends from May through September there's live music.
The Grilled Cheese Truck
Triple Cream Brie with fresh peaches and thyme and a Prosciutto crust. From tacos to lobster rolls to ice cream sandwiches and even Korean-Mexican fusion, adventurous Angelenos can whet their taste buds at any of a number of mobile restaurants that trawl the city.
Still, for many, The Grilled Cheese Truck stands alone. With limitless variations on the childhood favorite -- each taken to its highest form -- there's even a macaroni-and-cheese grilled cheese.
Nightlife
The Edison
Part throwback to the art deco 1930s, part modern marvel of industrial chic, The Edison was once home to L.A.'s first private power plant (hence the name).
Rooms vary in theme, but most boast dark corners that inspire salacious thoughts. Leather club chairs, lush draperies and dramatic iron candelabras combine with factory steel in this sexy, steampunk alternate reality. For cocktails try The Mistress ($14). Reservations recommended.
La Descarga
Walk through a wooden wardrobe and down a spiral metal staircase for a night of rum cocktails and salsa music. Just dispense with the high heels, else you may do the splits before you can hit the dance floor.
This Cuban-themed lounge is a cigar bar, but smokers are confined to one area near the rum-only bar in back, so you won't leave smelling like a trash fire. Meanwhile, burlesque dancers on the balcony will whisk you away to bygone Havana. Reservations recommended. Jacket required.
The Surly Goat
Like most anywhere these days, craft beer is hot in Los Angeles, and the Surly Goat gets props for its 27 taps, central location and playful feel. Maybe it's the accepting WeHo (West Hollywood) vibe, but everyone seems welcome here. Happy hour from 6 to 8 p.m. Monday through Friday dissolves workday worries, so it probably soothes jet lag, too.
Bar Centro at the SLS Hotel
Everyone in L.A. knows about The Bazaar by José Andrés. The trouble is getting a table.
Skip the stress and get a taste of Andrés (arguably the most celebrated chef in Los Angeles of late) in the lobby bar adjacent to Bazaar at the SLS Hotel. The people watching is extraordinary, the whimsical Phillipe Starck decor wows and the liquid nitrogen caipirinha stuns at $20. It's worth every dollar.
Prepared tableside, a cloud of freezing gas engulfs your server as he or she stirs. When it dissipates, you're left with what amounts to a deceptively strong and smooth frozen caipirinhia, complete with fresh herbs and a little wooden spoon. One does the trick.
Shopping
Melrose Avenue
Melrose Avenue used to be the place to go for cheap and trendy fashion. While you can still score some of that on the eastern flank of this two-mile stretch of Melrose (between La Brea and Fairfax avenues), once you get closer to La Cienega Boulevard, look out! Everything comes at a premium.
A few highlights from both sides: Golden Apple Comics (7018 Melrose Ave.; +1 323 658 6047) is the place to feed your inner geek or amuse your 12-year-old. Lingerie shop Agent Provocateur (7961 Melrose Ave.; +1 323 653 0229) serves up saucy numbers to unleash that inner pinup girl.
Decades (8214 Melrose Ave.; +1 323 655 1960) puts couture on consignment, making the unattainable (somewhat more) affordable.
Melrose Avenue, Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, CA 90046;
Abbot Kinney
Much of this area was once crisscrossed by canals in developer Abbot Kinney's grand plan to make it the "Venice of America." Earlier this year, GQ selected Abbot Kinney (named after the visionary developer and conservationist) in Venice as the coolest block in America. It's definitely where culture meets commerce. And it's steps from the beach. Unlike other hot shopping strips, many of the stores along Abbot Kinney emphasize variety over specialization.
Santee Alley
While well-heeled Westsiders may lack the patience, L.A.'s designers, hipsters and bargain-hunters know downtown's outdoor shopping district, Santee Alley. Comprised of more than 150 stalls, this Fashion District market forces buyers to wade through some garbage to find the gold.
But there is gold, if you take the time to find it. Otherwise, just have a taco, and take in a Los Angeles that few tourists ever see.
Attractions
Walt Disney Concert Hall
Glare from the Hall reportedly warmed nearby condos by more than 48 degrees Farenheit until its surface was dulled. Whether or not you're into the L.A. Philharmonic, head downtown and check out the Frank Gehry-designed Walt Disney Concert Hall.
Not only is it otherworldly to behold, its design makes it one of the most acoustically sophisticated concert halls on the planet. Children under 6 are not admitted to performances.
Hollywood Bowl
The Hollywood Bowl is the largest naturally formed outdoor theater in the United States. hether you're in a box at the front or up in the benches of the nosebleed section, when the sun sets, there's something magical about the Hollywood Bowl.
Parking is a test of conviction, but if you spring for a lot down on Hollywood Boulevard and walk to and from the venue, you'll save time in traffic and log an interesting stroll. ost seats allow you to bring your own food and beverages, including wine and beer, so call to check.
Paradise Cove
Unlike the vast sands of Zuma or Santa Monica's popular Will Rogers State Historic Park, the beach at Paradise Cove feels private and small. Like a little slice of the Mediterranean in Malibu, complete with chairs and wait staff courtesy of the Paradise Cove Café.
There, dishes are big enough to split and mimosas are made with Perrier Jouet. Get four hours of parking for $3 with restaurant validation. Otherwise, it's $30. Ouch.
The Good Life
Aside from the weather, one of the best things about living in L.A. is the ability to access celebrity-level amenities on a regular schmo's budget. What does that mean?
Angelenos know how to feel fabulous at affordable prices. t all comes down to how you look and your mode of transportation. (Sort of.)
Start your transformation by visiting a style consultant. Michele Liberman (aka The Shopping Friend) helps locals and tourists achieve a personal, flattering signature look at affordable prices. You can even take her shopping with you.
Michele Liberman, The Shopping Friend, +1 917 297 3875
Meanwhile, hair to rival any Kardashian can be yours for a pittance at one of L.A.'s blow-dry bars.
Can't get in to the perennially popular DryBar? Stylists at local secret JM Blowdry (whose services Time magazine rated one of the eight most opulent in this year's Academy Awards gift bags) transform tresses and do makeup.
JM Blowdry, 9410 Dayton Way, Beverly Hills; +1 310 860 1880
London style comes to Tinseltown. Likewise, for a shave, haircut, facial and whiskey on the rocks, The Shave Beverly Hills is a stateside take on London's gentlemen's emporiums. Get the latest sports scores or read the business section while you relax in upscale grandeur.
The Classic Shave Company, 9635 Brighton Way, Beverly Hills, CA 90210;
Now that you look like a local, why not get around like one? Luxury transportation is readily available whether you want to travel by land, sea or air. Rent your car of choice from Imagine Lifestyles. A Range Rover Sport will set you back $375 per day, while there are four types of Ferrari, starting at $1,495.
Imagine Lifestyles, 7510 Sunset Blvd., Suite 1438, Hollywood; +1 323 310 3365
Don't expect to get her into top gear on L.A.'s roads.
Across town, Captain Alex at Paradise Bound Yacht Charters run sunset cruises from the Ritz-Carlton Maria del Rey.
Paradise Bound Yacht, 4375 Admiralty Way, Marina Del Rey; +1 310 578 7963
Not romantic enough? A relaxing, private gondola tour of the Venice canals (get it, Venice?) can be yours courtesy of Gondolas Amore.
Gondola D'Amore, 14045 Panay Way, Marina del Rey, CA 90292;
Finally, if you're feeling flush, Blue Star Jets of Beverly Hills runs round-trip VLJ (very light jet) transportation between L.A., Las Vegas and San Francisco.
Pushing it? Perhaps. Unless you get "discovered" while in town.